 |
On Pilgrimage to India By Nathan Cook, November 2008 |
 |
Delhi
In the beautiful month of November I was fortunate enough to be asked to accompany another group of Pilgrims on a journey to India. I had been the year before and had had a fantastic time. So it was with great excitement that we embarked on another journey together.
It was a relatively small group that started in Delhi on November 6. Most people on the trip had some association with the Drolkar Buddhist Centre near Geelong in Melbourne, or at least new someone who did. The Venerable Geshe Sonam Thargye, the founder of Drolkar joined us this year, on what proved to be another fantastic few weeks in this amazingly diverse country.
Our first two days in Delhi we jumped into the deep end exploring the back streets of Old Delhi and some of its historical sites made famous by the Mughals. The Mughals ruled over much of India back in the 15th & 16th centuries and left behind them some of the greatest monuments on the subcontinent, the most famous of all being the Taj Mahal. In Delhi we visited some lesser lights stopping off at Delhi’s Red Fort and the imposing Jama Masjid or Great Friday Mosque. Both sights are imposing edifices of red sandstone that tower over the maze of backstreets and tiny lanes that characterise Old Delhi. |
 Jama Masjid - New Delhi |
Our first two days in Delhi we jumped into the deep end exploring the back streets of Old Delhi and some of its historical sites made famous by the Mughals. The Mughals ruled over much of India back in the 15th & 16th centuries and left behind them some of the greatest monuments on the subcontinent, the most famous of all being the Taj Mahal. In Delhi we visited some lesser lights stopping off at Delhi’s Red Fort and the imposing Jama Masjid or Great Friday Mosque. Both sights are imposing edifices of red sandstone that tower over the maze of backstreets and tiny lanes that characterise Old Delhi.
|
On one of our days there we visited the Tibetan Refugee Ssettlement on the outskirts the city. A narrow stretch of land between the road and the river that the Tibetans of Delhi have to call home. We stopped by to see the facilities that are available to Tibetans living in India’s capital and to find out about the trials and tribulations of life as a refugee. |
The train network in India is instrumental to the movement of its people. It is estimated to move upwards of 10 million people everyday. Covering long distances other than flying it is the most painless way to travel. Leaving Delhi we boarded our 2-tier AC (some of us 3-Tier) sleeper train to Varanasi. 13 hours east and a little south of the capital. I love train journeys crossing the countryside that supports so many. I can’t vouch for the rest of my group though and our arrival in Varanasi, one of India’s holiest cities was heartily welcomed by many |
 Peter assessing our overnight transport |
Varanasi
Varanasi is one of the most spiritual cities in the world. It also has to be one of the dirtiest which results in mixed emotions among visitors to this holy outpost. Situated on the banks of the River Ganges its spirituality comes from its location on this river that, for a short period here flow east to west rather than the west to east of the rest of its journey from its source in the Himalayas. It is the lifeblood of this amazing city and the focus of most visitors’ time there. We stayed for 3 days, long enough to see and experience the sights, the sounds and those oh so aromatic smells but not long enough to dislike the place. For those of more hygienic, less spiritual backgrounds, a long stay would be impossible.
The Ganges River is at its most sacred in Varanasi. Despite its importance as a water source for India’s bread bowl in Varanasi it takes on a whole new meaning. The banks of the river are lined with pilgrim and rest houses (called ghats). Stone steps lead into the muddy waters for some three kilometres backed by high walled temples, crematoriums and the life of the city.
 Boy on the river Ganges |
We took both dawn and evening cruises on the river, the two times when the activity around this holy water is at its most vibrant. Pilgrims, some having travelled thousands of miles wash and bathe in the river at dawn. Devotees lift water over their heads, chant mantras and dunk themselves in the brown waters meanwhile, a dead body (a ‘floater’) drifts by just metres away, fully intact, other than the obvious absence of life. From our western perspective it is hard to comprehend bathing in such close confines to the dead. Where did he come from, who knows? The remains from a cremation, the result of foul play, a sufferer of some disease who is dipped whole in the river rather than being cremated. |
On our return journey back to our starting point our friend was no longer drifting but bobbing lightly up against the bow of a stationary vessel near the line of dobhiwallahs, the people washing clothes and other accessories, either for themselves or for employ. In my clinical western way I was only glad it wasn’t my shirts that he had.
While in Varanasi we took a trip 12kms west to the town of Sarnath where the Buddha, after becoming enlightened delivered his first sermon. A 20-minute drive but a world away from river Ganges. Serenity replaced frenetic activity. At Sarnath a new Sri Lankan Buddhist temple stands just by the ruins of some ancient stupas and ruins where the sermon was said to have been delivered. It was a pleasant break from the bustle of the city and highlighted the contrasts that exist everywhere in India.
Varanasi is not a place that you look back on and say ‘that was lovely’. It is an experience, part of wider journey. You can learn about it, read about it, sit by the river and ‘immerse’ yourself in the activity, if not the river itself but it is not a place that you ever understand. I have no doubt it is a special place and whether I like it or not I cannot say. It is an experience, one I enjoy when I am there, and the memory of which is one of amazement at a culture that is so, so different from my usual habitual routine |
 Heading out on Cycle Rickshaws |
Bodhgaya
We are on a Buddhist pilgrimage of India, so it only makes sense that one of our primary destinations was the small village of Bodhgaya in the countryside of Bihar, categorically India’s poorest state. Approximately 2550 years ago the Buddha arrived here in Bodhgaya, sat under a tree and meditated until he achieved enlightenment. So what is enlightenment, ahhh the eternal question and a topic I am not about to delve into in these few short paragraphs.
 Chelseas, Geshe Sonam and a nun at the Mahabodhi stupa |
In Bodhgaya today there is a central temple or stupa called Mahabodhi or Great Buddha Stupa that is centrepiece of the town. Buddhist pilgrims travel from all over the world to visit this venerated place. Large groups of Thais, Sri Lankans, Vietnamese crowd the town along with numerous Indians and Tibetans all to experience the energy of this sacred place, and hopefully capture some of the peace and serenity that the Buddha found here for themselves. |
We woke each morning around 5am and made our way to the Mahabodhi stupa to circumambulate, pray and meditate. Even at this early hour the place is abuzz with chanting pilgrims and walking devotees. The gardens are filled with hundreds of Tibetans, with the occasional westerner prostrating for hours a day. To prostrate is to hold ones hands in prayer position in front of the forehead, the face and the throat before lying down and stretching out full length on a wooden board before standing up and repeating the process. People do this for hours, days and even weeks in the hoping of earning merit and therefore an improved position in the cycle of rebirth for themselves and all sentient beings. It is also a way of quashing ones ego and being a little more humble.
Many nationalities have built temples in Bodhgaya in reverence to the Buddha’s past. There is a Thai temple, a Korean, Sri Lankan, Burmese, Bhutanese, Japanese and a number of Tibetan temples all within the confines of Bodhgaya. All of them are here for the spiritual significance of the destination.
As for us we sit in the grounds and enjoy the ambience and the energy of the place. The Mahabodhi Stupa is such a dynamic place that no moment is ever the same. The constant stream of pilgrims keeps the place colourful and alive. The stiffness and ostracism of Muslim and Hindu temples does not exist here. Buddhism it seems lacks that need to sanctify itself as a higher form of faith and everyone is welcome. The guards are gentle and accommodating. Camera toting tourists of all nationalities are welcomed with open arms. Pictures can be taken for a small fee but the vigilante style of policing such laws that exist at sites dedicated to other faiths is lacking at this pillar of Buddhism. It makes for a welcome change. |
 Mahabodhi Stupa under a full moon |
Most of us spent a good portion of our five-day stay seated in the grounds of the stupa or walking methodically and thoughtfully around its base. At the eastern side of the temple is a tree, a Bodhi tree, said to be a direct descendant of the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment some two and a half centuries ago. It remains a focal point.
Our final day in Bodhgaya I spent almost 6 hours at the temple throughout the course of the day. Reading, mediating, sleeping and people watching, it was clearly the best day of the trip so far. Doing nothing it reminded me of my yogi gurus on Koh Tao who often start a class by inviting you to enjoy the class because you have ‘nowhere to go, nowhere to be’. It is a nice feeling and one as a father of two I will cherish while I can get it.
Agra
Agra as a city isn’t much to write home about except that it is home to the Taj Mahal, which many a city would love to boast. There are quite a few other historical monuments but our hotel between two long days of travel has become somewhat of a destination itself.
| Those who made it to the Taj Mahal, and a few RG's of course |
The Jaypee Palace Hotel in Agra has been built and modelled on the Mughal forts and palaces of yesteryear. Large sandstone pillars and archways lead into spacious corridors and luxurious accommodation. Little expense has been spared. The grounds are spacious flowing with the waters of paradise through streams and fountains that unlike their historical counterparts actually work. I spent most of my one morning there simply walking the grounds and enjoying the space. If we weren’t in India this hotel would be a destination itself and worth a few days of your time, assuming your budget can cater for it. We did make it to the Taj Mahal, the only outing for most of my group. It is a stunning piece of architecture. As the famous Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore once wrote, “a teardrop on the face of eternity”. |
Dharamsala
Rain and sleet were quickly and thankfully replaced by beautiful sunshine on our arrival in the Himalayas. The light dusting of snow made the mountains glow in the azure skies, a magical portrait painted by nature, the finishing touches just completed.
Our time in Dharamsala has been a clear highlight of the trip. Unlike the magical spiritual energy of the Mahabodhi Stupa in Bodhgaya, Dharamsala has no ancient history to it. A small, abandoned hill station settled by Tibet’s refugee community following their arrival from the 1960’s onward, MacLeod Ganj sits atop a ridge at 1700 metres altitude in the foothills of the Himalaya. The Dhauladhar range of mountains rise up behind the town soaring to 5000 metres or more providing a stunning backdrop.
We spent the four days in Dharamsala enjoying the magic of the cooler mountain air, and the hospitality of the Tibetan community in exile. His Holiness the Dalai Lama is also a resident and our hotel, perched on a hillside with magnificent sunset views overlooks his residence and temple complex. Although heavily fortified he has chosen not to ostracize himself in a large monastery or palace far from his people but rather be close to the action and the heart of the town. Every morning we rose at 6.30am and made our way in the growing light of day to His Holiness’ temple, walking the kora or pilgrimage circuit around his temple, spinning prayer wheels for the benefit of all beings on earth. As a group of 5 or 6 or sometimes 10 we’d say some Buddhist prayers and meditate before walking another much longer kora around the mountain. After an hour or so we arrived back where we started. More than two hours after getting up and the day well and truly upon us we would enjoy a chai before thinking about the rest of the day. |
 Morning sun at the temple of His Holiness the Dalai Lama |
Dharamsala is always nice, slow time. In between long mornings or afternoons of coffee and cake we visited a number of charities and non-profit organizations doing good work for the local community. Our interest is both a general one, to see the good work so many people do for so little, but also of a more universal concern to help out where possible. The Norbulingka Institute promotes the preservation of Tibetan Culture and handicrafts and has built a beautiful space to do that in. We helped by making good use of our advanced retail abilities and left with heavier bags and lighter wallets.
The Tibetan Children’s Village is another going concern doing amazing work for the refugee population in India. With branches of schools, day care centres, medical centres and aged care homes it is an amazing organization. The junior school we visited houses and schools over 2100 students, an extraordinary figure. We were shown around by a lovely woman Drolma who, despite having just shown around another group was patient and conscientious, warm and friendly.
 On the 'kora' surrounding His Holiness' Temple and residence. Suzanne, Sharlene, Chelsea, Peter, Pia |
In the same morning we also stopped by the Refugee Reception Centre where Tibetans arriving from Tibet having escaped from Tibet illegally are received and processed. The cold and damp building contrasted the warm reception the deputy director, Mingyur gave us. She elaborated on the plight of escapees, some of the different ways they escape – through the mountains (usually in winter), by truck (hidden) – and some of the injuries and illnesses sustained during their journey. The few of us that went sat there in amazement and awe at the courage of those faceless individuals who had endured so much just to enjoy the sort of freedoms we take for granted. We really have no idea what it would take to escape from Tibet, walking on foot through the highest mountains in the world, in winter no less, with no specialised equipment or clothing. It is inconceivable to us. |
The highlight was categorically the momentary glimpse that I received of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama on our third morning in the hills. A conference of a few hundred exiled Tibetan leaders had been conceived to thrash out a game plan in response to the Chinese continued apathy to finding a solution to the idea of Tibet as an independent or autonomous unit. The Chinese turn up to meetings but have no real desire to find a mutually agreed solution to the problem. As they see it, they hold all the cards so why should they.
His Holiness didn’t attend the conference but gave a press conference in the temple before the delegates left. In the courtyard we were allowed in to hopefully catch a brief glimpse as he moved from his residence to the temple, a distance of about 100 metres. We waited patiently in the morning air and shortly after 9am, the reincarnation of the Buddha of Compassion strolled smilingly across the courtyard, waving to the two hundred or so public who had gathered for their moment with him. I would like to say that I caught his eye as he walked by and that we shared a moment, but he didn’t. Regardless the presence of this amazing individual, however brief made the whole journey all the more special. Later, when we returned to the temple the room that he had given an audience in was empty, but the energy was amazing simply because he had been there.
Delhi
Our three week journey through a very small portion of this amazing country came to an end in New Delhi. We travelled by car and train back to the capital where we had one night and one day to occupy before flying out. On our last day I paid a visit to Gandhi Smriti, a memorial to Gandhi set up at Birla House in New Delhi. The Birla family are a wealthy lot who were good friends of Gandhi when he was alive. When Gandhi was shot, at Birla House, he was staying there for his own safety. The house was donated as a memorial to this astonishing man. It has been tastefully decorated and his memory brilliantly immortalised through a fantastic series of boards depicting the trials and tribulations of his life and death. For me it was a moving experience to say the least. One quote sticks in my mind and I often think of it in these times of uncertainty and chaos, ‘I have nothing new to teach the world. Truth and Non-Violence are as old as the hills’.
On a path leading from his bedroom footprints have been printed depicting his final walk to the prayer ground behind the house where he was gunned down. In the sectarian violence of the time, with intense fighting between Hindus and Muslims, Gandhi worked tirelessly to bring about reconciliation between communities and acceptance of fellow man no matter their race, background or religion. Being a Hindu himself it was hardly surprising that his downfall came at the hands of a fellow Hindu, someone who couldn’t accept Gandhi’s acceptance and love of everyone else.
Around about the time we left for our homelands terrorists started a 3-day rampage through India’s financial capital, Mumbai. Non-stop reporting showed the horror on the streets and the carnage inflicted by extremists demonstrating that the world is full of surprises and evil. India’s diversity and continued differences mean the community that Gandhi fought and dreamed of was just that, a dream and its reality hard to imagine in this ever changing world.
India is an amazing, frustrating, wonderful, beautiful, polluted, magical country and this journey has once again been enjoyable and memorable. Beyond that I am extremely thankful for the peace and serenity that exists in my world. I am thankful to be surrounded by beautiful, loving people no matter where I go. I am thankful to share with those closest to me the belief in accepting what is and the magic of living for today. That is all we can ever do. |
 |
Nathan Cook
November 30, 2008
